These are un-oaked or oaked wines with broad, earthy flavours such as many Rhone Whites, Macons, Vouvrays and similar wines. They are generally substantial, dry wines characterised by mineral or soil aromas rather than fruity or floral ones (although some at the richer end of the scale have floral or fruity notes).
These wines have good structure, based on medium to high alcohol, a solid backbone of acidity, and sometimes phenolics derived from the oak or grape skins. Lees aged wines particularly have this richness of texture. Look for wines where structure dominates aromatics and gives the impression of substance, weight and solidity in the wine.
These wines are generally not for the novice drinker due to their subtle, constrained flavours and lack of overt fruitiness. They are not quaffing wines as they require the drinker to pay attention to the taste of the wine, appreciate its structure, balance and reserved flavour profile.